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Best heat moldable boot on the market. Without these boots you would need full customs. Kevlar scuff pad shows no damage. Slide mounting bolt system. The zipper hides the laces and is place where it won't be in the way, and you know how you hate it when your velcro comes undone or you fall on your buckle. Choice natural leathers and synthetic micro-fibers allow for the best of fit, wear and performance. New improved collar provides greater support around the top of the ankle.
Notably, the eye-stay position at the collar was re-designed for better fit and support around the ankle and a lace slot was added to the tongue to prevent creeping on low volume feet. The K2 Longmount boot is fully heat moldable, including the instep, and is completed with a stiff and light carbon fiber base.K2 sought design advice from the world's top racers (including K2 Engineer and Race Legend John Svensson) to create the world's best inline speed skate, heat moldable arch and boot, and ratcheting buckle. The K2 Mod X Pro Longmount is the choice among the growing number of racers breaking records on Big Wheel setups.
K2 Recon MSL, Pro Longmount, and Ice Svenbock speed skating boots are fully heat moldable and provide the fit of a custom boot at a fraction of the custom price. The boot is designed and pre-molded to fit an average size ankle out of the box. But this area may not match your particular ankle shape well prior to heat molding. It is important to mold the boot properly before use to obtain optimum fit and performance.
Note: If you have access to a vacuum pump through your local skate shop professional or race club coach then use the vacuum pump and bagging method to replace step 4C listed below. The vacuum bagging method will give the best fit possible.
Please follow the instructions below:
1. Supplies:
A. Conventional oven or convection oven (Do not use a microwave oven. It will damage the boots).
B. Thin socks
C. An assistant to help make things easier.
D. 1 or 2 elastic bandages
2. Boot Preparation:
A. If attached, remove the frame and mounting screws from the bottom of the boot.
B. Lace the boots loosely and close the lace cover.
3. Heating the Boots:
A. Turn the oven on and set it to 225F (110C).
B. When the oven reaches 225F (110C), turn the oven off.
C. It is recommended that you heat and mold the boots one at a time.
D. Place a boot (without frame and mounting screws) in the center of the oven, equally spaced on all sides from the heating elements and set the timer for 10 minutes.
E. After 10 minutes the sides of the boot and ankle area should become noticeably flexible. The boot is now ready to be custom fit. Ovens may vary so please use the above time as a guideline only. If the boots are not flexible after 10 minutes then leave them in the oven for an extra 5 minutes. DO NOT increase the temperature setting. Boots that have been damaged by excessive heating from any means (heat gun, oven, etc.) are not covered under warranty.
4. Molding the Boots:
A. Put on a thin sock on the foot to be molded. Take the boots out of the oven and put them on immediately. Warning - the metal eyelets will be HOT to the touch! Please be careful.
B. Lace the boots until they are snug, but not as tight as one might skate in them because the leather around the eyelets can be damaged when it is warm and soft.
C. Wrap each boot tightly with the elastic bandage, just as one would bandage an ankle. Fix the bandage in place to keep it from unraveling. (Note: if you have access to a vacuum pump and bag then use this method for this step).
D. Weight the boot (stand in the basic skating position) for about 5~10 minutes to allow the boots to cool and get firm. You or your assistant should apply additional pressure to important areas such as the heel, ankle, and arch for the best possible molding.
E. When the boots have fully cooled, unwrap the elastic.
F. Install your frames and wheels and go skating!
Note: It is possible to perform localized molding of certain areas with a heat gun but this procedure is difficult and risky. Using a heat gun is not recommended by K2 due to the risk of damaging synthetic boot materials from too high a setting on the heat gun or by prolonged heating in one area of the boot. Boots that have been damaged by excessive heating from any means (heat gun, oven, etc.) are not covered under warranty.
This step is performed during #4C on the K2 Skate "Heat Molding and Fit Instructions" guidelines. Reference that document for heating instructions.
Materials Required: Boots, thin socks, and vacuum bag and pump. A rubber band such as a bicycle inner tube or Velcro band is required to seal off the vacuum bag around the calf/ankle area.
Figure 1. Boots, thin socks, and vacuum bag.
Figure 2. The boots should be in the oven evenly spaced from the walls and not touching the walls or any heating elements.
Figure 3. Lace up the warm boots (step 4B) and insert your foot into the vacuum bag. Insert the vacuum hose inside the tongue cover so the bag will not seal off the vacuum hose. This will give the best air removal from the vacuum bag and the highest pressure for optimum fit.
Figure 4. Seal off the top of the bag around the calf or ankle and let the vacuum hose draw out all the air inside the bag. The bag will get very tight around the boot and ankle and the boot will begin to conform to your foot.
Figure 5. Have an assistant apply pressure to the boot to help it conform to your foot. This is especially useful for difficult to mold areas such as the heel, ankle pockets, and arch area. (This is part of step 4D in the molding instructions.)
Figure 6. Maintain a skating stance during molding so that the boot is molded to fit your ankle in your normal skating position. (This is part of step 4D in the molding instructions.)
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